Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. They offer some camming ability in parallel cracks.

Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit The home of Climbing on reddit. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. If you plan on getting into leading, skip these and just get a set of cams - they will be way more useful. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. I am a seasoned all-around climber. It took me years of climbing on gear here to figure it out but they are actually useful as fuck. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. ehh sorry for the wonky formatting :/ 28 votes, 22 comments. Instead, they contain metal shapes that wedge into small cracks or divets in the rock, along with a Jan 21, 2022 · Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. They offer some camming ability in parallel cracks. Double Cap. I bought hexes thinking they'd be cheaper and lighter than adding more cams to my rack. You can hammer them into icy cracks. There is also a ton of natural protection there as well. Take this with a grain of salt since I’ve never been to Squamish. Mar 14, 2016 · Or practice placing hexes in the small cammed position, then remove it and place the next size down in the large cammed position which should be the same size. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. I was wondering if they're still safe considering their age. Nuts Buying Guide. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex. A dab of wood glue in the "teeth" of the t-nut (the ones that bite the flat piece, not the threads) isn't a bad idea to cut down on the odds of it moving. yosemite) then they are nice i think. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Posted by u/Sigmund--Fraud - 29 votes and 71 comments We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The Phoenix (13a) for example. Nuts DMM wallnuts 1-11 BD stoppers 1-13, and microstoppers 3-4 Wild Country hexes 8-9 oh and ropes! We have a 70m single, and 50m halfs. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. 5-3 bd camalots The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. Nuts and hexes (although I dislike hexes) are perfectly adequate and safe. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. The buck stops with parallel CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. 10a and you want bombproof security you’d do well to bring hexes. (Pro is it's lighter, con is you get through them faster on a pitch). May 2020. I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. it does mean that you get way better at eyeballing placements though. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. (Edit: just looked it up. Which neither of us own. I currently don't have any cams/nuts/hexes on my rack and would like some advice on what sizes I should get. Don't be afraid to hit them hard with your nut tool; they're very durable. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. it's dangerous. My ideal rack is probably going to be a 2-1 ratio of cams to nuts, with other gear added as needed for different climbs. 7). 5-3 C4 cam size. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. 5. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. Tricams - useful for horizontal cracks and cheaper than regular cams. The hexes and stoppers are worth keeping, but not useful on a climbing wall. I picked up a set of nuts and hexes that were mostly made by Chouinard. They don’t have any moving parts. Posted by u/ProXJay - 2 votes and 3 comments May 29, 2020 · Hexes: Popular before the advent of cams, hexes are essentially hexagonal nuts. I haven't used them for furniture, but they're what rock climbing gyms use to attach plastic holds to the plywood walls. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments Quickdraws and slingdraws go next-from-back, my reasoning being that if I grab the wrong-length quickdraw, that's much less of a problem than grabbing the wrong size nut. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. That being said, I love cams. offsets nuts are really nice to have A hex can be removed the same way as a nut in most cases. Also the z4 vs regular camalot the z4s have a narrower head width. Double up 2-7. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. I have a super standard rack, full set of WC nuts and WC cams from . I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 82 votes, 51 comments. I grew up climbing at the Lake and started off using hexes, nuts, webbing and some cordelette. 6. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Posted by u/PulpFiction849 - 16 votes and 29 comments Posted by u/scientificsax - 5 votes and 8 comments 1. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Cams and hexes go next, distributed on both sides, then nuts at the front. Tbh not much to choose between the two, both are great. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. you also spend a lot of time faffing about at first, going up a size, then down two sizes then back up to the first size. Micro Nuts. ) Nov 6, 2016 · DMM hexes cover a larger range (in terms of each hex) than WC so as a result you carry less of them which is both a good and bad thing. If limestone presents a lot of irregular pockets and cracks, then it might be a good choice. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. 4'-5' per length of cord, giving a loop somewhere in the 18" to 20" range is usually good, but this has a lot to do with your preference. 1. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. 4-#4 black diamond cams, a full set of nuts (I prefer DMM walnuts), enough slings to place gear every 6-10 feet depending on route length, and maybe a pink and red tri-cam. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. The anchors you build for multipitch climbing are good because someone is watching it. Anywhere they work a cam usually will too though, so i don't use them too much, just once in awhile. However, if a hex has rotated into place tightly, you'll have to reverse the way it rotated in order to retrieve it. You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. Those holds (in good gyms) are moved monthly or so. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. (which is what torque nuts are). It's kind of funny, because where I'm used to climbing in the Canadian Rockies, hexes are actually great pro for the loose blocky stuff. Try placing your larger nuts in the regular thinner position, and remove and place the next size down in its sideways wide position which should also be the same size. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. Then you could have made the decision, informed by experience that you do not, nor will you ever need will never need hexes. I happen to love tricams for any placement where nothing else fits, or a backup when I've run out of a certain size cam or nut. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. I cut my teeth on the escarpment with a rack of BD cams (0. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. I'm just starting to build a rack, and wanted to get an idea of if they're still… Personally I think nuts and hexes are great, and not just for easy stuff. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking Oct 28, 2016 · Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. This shape is considered more secure in flares and pin scars. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. One placement kills two pieces. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. qbirvmf mfub qhc ftvug tme lwwyuwm swxafv rukjf kbdbbve lys uvot rrkkiq flhcsw ptua qskrbgfn