Trad climbing reddit 7 that is of average length with what I have been told is a standard rack and I got halfway up and realized that I had used all of my large cams and the crack was only getting larger. Ive been trad climbing for 6 years and never had to bail and leave gear, but ive never dome anything hatder than 5. Typically there are convenient spots to belay at those lengths. But, If slab’s aren’t your thing and you’re more crack or edging, then I can honestly say the TCs are the best. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Bouldering, cragging, mountain crags, multipitch, alpine, scrambling, sea cliffs This is the only correct answer, and should get added to browsers as an autocorrect replacement for every variation of "Best Trad Harness" , "What is the best Trad Harness", etc. Modern usage of the term trad climbing is where you place your own protection (nuts, cams, etc. I have friends who say that they have been climbing for a decade but refuse to learn new things and change their systems. The local climbing guide books would be my first choice for information on this topic but they are often too vague. 11. Hey Guys, I am looking for a Crag Pack to throw everything in. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. So far in my trad climbing career I have been using a typical setup with 10+ Alpine quickdraws each consisting of of 2 biners… 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. it's dangerous. 17 votes, 34 comments. Trad opens up more adventure-style climbing, tackling big walls and being out there on the wall for hours. Check out the poll and feel free to Hello Climbing, I am an advanced level boulder climber and I am really looking forward to jumping into Trad climbing. Now I'm on an exchange program to Scotland and there's not much outdoor sports climbing here so learning to trad climb would be ideal I guess. Trad climbing standards and practices change over time. For climbing I use the north face route rocket 18 and it’s amazing. Alpine draws depend a lot on where you climb like all trad gear. Absolutely don't buy quickdraws of any length for a trad rack! 12 votes, 48 comments. Trad is definitely the style in Scotland, as it should be. This being said, it depends whats holding you back. You are going to have a shit ton of fun based out of either of these cities. I already have some sport climbing items such as quick draws, rope, harness, and shoes. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. . Oct 16, 2018 · I recently started trad climbing after ~3 years of climbing. I do not have a ton of money so I would like the least expensive but still durable and safe options. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. I got into climbing this year and have spent a lot of indoor climbing, both top roping and bouldering. 1. Both Glasgow and Edinburgh have enormous climbing communities. 7) I'm planning a trip to Vegas in the spring and looking for recommendations for multipitch trad adventures. Several years is an appropriate time frame. I wear a 40/40. 10 on gear. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Was wondering what my ideal trad rack would be if money wasn't an issue. I intend on taking a course this summer and would like some advice for climbing training. Now I take one up every trad climb, no matter what. I heard from a trad climber at an NC crag that it is better to have 2 different brands of cams compose your rack (Such as a set of c4's and a set of wild country friends) because even the same "size" will have slightly different dimensions. This will give you a slow and steady progression that will probably keep you safer in the long term: You're developing your climbing skill, climbing strength, and technical trad skills in parallel, rather than becoming an awesome sport climber that gets in dangerously over his head on a difficult trad route. Works well enough for those of us that are primarily sport climbers. 10 on gear, which is good for Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. It has a lot of attachment points, zippers that open half way and internally so you don’t drop stuff, and can be hauled with the straps tucked in. Reply reply More replies Kiwibertc • Anyone have a fav accessory cord and want to say why? Price, softness, strength, weight? Do you use/train prussik’s and do they grab? Thank you! r/tradclimbing Traditional Climbing Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. There are bomber looking trees in the back of your photo. There is a lot to learn. Commiting to a crux 5m above poor wires with solid groundfall potential if they rip feels very different to a crux above some 12mm Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. The best shoe is the one that fits your foot and meets your needs. In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Hit me up if you have other questions, happy climbing! I want to get into trad climbing so I wanted to purchase items for a climbing rack. Mines yellow. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally DMM wallnut, size 3. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning on gear. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. Today I tried to climbing a 5. The home of Climbing on reddit. 5 and below), and we're stoked!! But also I'm wondering if there's any Gunks climbers in here who have advice on what walls to hit to keep practicing on super easy grades. Edit: I live in San Diego so mostly Since I live in the northeast, a lot of the routes here are trad only. Rock protection, anchor, videos, photos, questions about gear, gear reviews and more! TOPICS Gaming Valheim Genshin Impact Minecraft Pokimane Halo Infinite Call of Duty: Warzone Path of Exile Hollow Knight: Silksong Escape from Tarkov Watch Dogs: Legion Sports NFL NBA Megan Anderson Atlanta Hawks Los Angeles Aid through the crux by pulling on gear Some routes have bloted anchors Bail on gear in the moat efficient way possible (maybe sling a tree). 70 is more weight on the approach, more rope to pull through and manage at your tiny belay. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Read a ton and watch a lot of videos. With a level head, I think you'll do great. Trad climbing is often thought of as a more dangerous form of climbing because the gear placements aren’t permanent. Thanks, and my apologies if this is asked everyday. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Ive only really gotten nervous leading trad once on an alpine route in Washington pass where I was pretty run out above a 0. After one year of trad climbing and nearly 100 pitches led, I am very comfy leading 5. I’ve always had dedicated PAS but am leaning toward ditching it entirely and primarily anchoring with the climbing rope (I mostly do multi-pitch trad). A fair chunk of trad climbing in the UK is face climbing. Trad climbing Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. Two years ago, though, I got into trad and haven't looked back. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. Should I get comfortable lead climbing indoors and outdoors first before hopping onto trad, or can I go A friend and I learnt trad climbing with a guide, and he told us to avoid using static materials for building anchors, as it can be harder on the anchor points in case of a fall, which is more likely for them to fail. The popular trad climbs were put up years ago with 50's and 60's when those were the norm (60 is still the norm for trad climbing IMO). I would also recommend a single #4 as well, it comes in handy on many easy/moderate classics. You can adapt a lot from your sport rack though, and I cannibalized my extra (read: old) "projecting" draws to have enough biners on my trad rack. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. What makes you enjoy sport/trad climbing? Is it the adventure? The physical challenge? Getting a little scared running it out but keeping the headspace you need to execute? All of the above? Bouldering is similar, but I think boulderers and trad climbers are driven by different things. I’m looking for recommendations for a shoe for hard single pitch trad. Your gear is stronger than most rock you put it in. 80m rope /ropebag Food/3l blatter 2 climbing harnesses/ helmets Sportdraws… A lot of harder trad in my experience, I needed some rudimentary aid climbing techniques anyway in order to access the route to parse out the free climbing beta safely. 593 votes, 159 comments. I currently work in a climbing gym that offers bouldering, top rope and lead climbing. I also have fairly decent crack skills and sport onsight solid 5. Alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies I used alpine draws almost exclusively as even with double ropes it could be hard to extend or make tricky placements work. She had helped me discover hiking and pushed me to try the climbing gym. Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. 11 on gear. For trad climbing at crags (and ice climbing) I will use about 4, because they're less bulky, cheaper and easier to operate. I want to get some gear… While sport climbing practice rappelling, anchor building, belaying up a follower. If you fell you would lower to the ground, pull the rope and start it again. ) I have cordelette, slings, and of course plenty Issues with the "standard rack" I am a newbie trad climber who can still count the amount trad routes I have done on my fingers. I'm looking at 2 ropes: The Mammut Crag Classic 9. I love TC pros but have always had them sized for comfort and can wear my current size all day on long multipitches and alpine routes. 5 and 5. The skillets aren't exactly the same (trad is more endurance, and sport is more power endurance), but if you get good at one, you get good at the other. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 37 votes, 118 comments. Quickdraws have no place on a trad rack. 5 in my approach shoes and my TC pros are 39. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. Taking it slow, learning a lot. How do you plan to get to your sport anchor or set up your trad anchor? Do you know how to rig - and pass - redirects around any rope-threatening edges? This will also help you build your trad lead confidence, which makes trad climbing an enjoyable experience and not some anxiety-inducing ordeal. How long did it take you to start leading? Otherwise, it's just like any other trad climb, albeit with slightly more route finding, slightly more vegetation, slightly colder, and more exhausting due to the elevation. It's a balance between the likelihood of a fall and the consequences of a fall. After climbing in a pair of mythos for years, I like how well they smear and climb on slabs. Trying to master my gear placement though. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. A thing about trad-climbing is being able to improvise with what you got, in the most efficient and safe manner. And yes we are scared of falling. 8+ at the Gunks. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I am considering a sized down TC pro or You must have been talking to some old dads from Yosemite or the gunks. Tons of great information and examples. Still a noob IMO. It comes down to the fact safety needs to be the priority. If you plan to climb anything higher than 30 meters (half a rope lenght), the self-rescue book is also mandatory, for your partner and your safety. I've been climbing inside and outside for just over two years now and recently went out and tried some (fantastic) Trad leads. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. This past weekend -- for the first time in 2 years -- I went on a short sport climbing trip to a classic area, and was -- frankly -- bored. My intention is to have them available for communicating with people while NOT climbing in areas where there isn't good cell coverage, or while climbing in conditions where there is a lot of background noise that makes direct communication difficult, like wind, a nearby river, etc. Climbers, in my experience, would rather spend many times more on other equipment (bikes, backpacking gear, ice climbing gear, etc. As far as I know, most people spend time following someone who is experienced in trad and learning. ) rather than learn how to trad climb and buy a trad rack, even though climbing is their main passion. 20 feet isn't that far on easy climbing, but if there's a ledge below you that changes that balance. After taking a two day course with a local guide, I followed up with a couple of successful multi-pitching easy routes days at the gunks and got super excited about trad. I think trad has ruined sport climbing for me I've been climbing 10 + years, 5 quite seriously, and have clipped bolts all over North America. If you are new to trad and are worried about your anchors I highly recommend picking up john longs climbing anchors and craig leubbens rock climbing anchors books. I was leading up to about 5. Trad climbing isn't rocket science, but trying everything at once can be overwhelming. There's a lot more to manage in trad climbing than in sport climbing so being able to take all the time in the world to get that good piece in is great. Because trad climbing relies on placing removable gear, it gives climbers the ability to access inaccessible places without scarring or permanently damaging the rock. What I found though, is I have the tendency to make placements from secure stances, and run out tough sections. Yeah I think that’s totally valid. Camp Nanos or Miniwires for the rack and a bunch of alpine draws. My partner and I both have good fitness levels and Been trad climbing for a while now, and have slowly built up a decent trad rack. Trad placements So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. The old school meaning of trad was to always climb from the ground up. Even in massive sport areas such as the New and the Red, cracks are left alone and trad ethics are respected. For alpine climbing I will usually only bring alpine draws. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • Enjoying the exposure on the final pitch of Yellow Ridge (5. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't get elvis leg (as much) while placing gear. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. So here's the situation. You can also do a ton of backpacking in Rocky and its stupidly beautiful. But the committing move run out and way up high above the snowy deck ended up being one of my most memorable climbing moments. Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. I've also climbed outside a few times. For example, on a climb say there is a 20 foot tough section, thin crack or roof, I would have no issues with putting a couple pieces in directly below this section from a secure stance. 15 votes, 38 comments. Crack climbing in Squamish you barely need draws if your cams extend. 6 terrain. That's about the most methodical and logical progression post to get into trad climbing I've seen from anyone on Reddit. There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. It's not just a question of rote learning one system and off you go. There's a higher concentration of quality beginner routes at Squamish too, so you don't need to keep moving from place to place. I mostly climb in the Northeast, predominantly trad, but with some sport occasionally. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. What advice do people have and what items would you recommend as most important. 10b sport outside when I… In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Kinda curious about what everyone else has in mind for their own dream rack. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. I've had my BD Momentum since I started climbing and I… The Real Housewives of AtlantaThe BachelorSister Wives90 Day FianceWife SwapThe Amazing Race AustraliaMarried at First SightThe Real Housewives of DallasMy 600-lb LifeLast Week Tonight with John Oliver New trad climbers often get in a fairly dogmatic frame of mind about "nuts go in constrictions and cams go in parallel cracks" when in practice, most of my placements are cams in constrictions. Traditional Climbing Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. I prefer rope for swapping leads, and just use slings other times so I don't have to carry a cordelette. I think the best advice I ever heard is focus 100 percent on the placements when your placing, then 100 percent on the climbing. Offset nuts are super useful in Squamish and my preference is DMM>WC>BD. Preferably something thorough for rock climbing trad anchors, I don't care about teaching them snow anchors and mountaineering details. ). but it worked, eventually. Recommended gear What do y’all recommend for a beginner trad rack? How much of what kind of gear should one buy? Thank you in advance. I'm looking at buying my first rope and the information on if dry treated is important or not is all over the place with regards to trad climbing so I thought I'd ask y'all. For the best that Colorado has to offer (not just trad) check out the area around Estes Park. For sport multipitch I’ve used a single when abs are short or half ropes. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! 26 votes, 114 comments. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. The only time to have them is if you already had them from sport climbing and you don't want to get runners to replace the dog bones of your existing quickdraws. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. My path in my early 20's was not that methodical. 4 on 5. There is a very large amount of climbing accessible by car and by public transport, and world class gyms in both. Took me about three months of trad climbing to fall on my gear. I always rack at least two. For more specific to rock climbing and trad, I would recommend Craig Leubben's book, "rock climbing: masterising basics". All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. Jan 22, 2010 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Then run out the tough section till I bought my own gear, but have a tendency to climb with more experienced trad climbers, and they prefer to use their own gear, so mine for the most part just gather dust back at home. If you're already good at elevation, and you are a confident trad climber at the grade of your alpine climb, you'll be fine! Reply reply thE_best_cookies • A place to talk about trad climbing. You need to be thoroughly versed in all aspects of climbing ropework systems. I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and am starting to break into 5. Weights? Style of session? Small technique tips for equipment? Tell me how to make the switch as smoothly as possible. Ladies; trad shoe recommendations?? Trad (lady) babes; any shoe recs to help my poor tootsies feel less like I’m slicing them off every time I shove em in a crack? <3 please and thank you!! I'm struggling to find a do-it-all harness I really like for trad/multipitch/ice climbing. What do you guys think? I'm new to trad so I would love any advice! Edit: Thanks for all the replies! 51 votes, 73 comments. Once you are comfortable with the rope systems involved and all that's left is learning to place protection, do that. It I suspect bold trad climbing is vastly over-represented in stories and climbing media though, because sending a bunch of well-protected moderates doesn't lead to accidents or good stories. Any popular trad route will typically either have: An anchor at the top of the route off which to rap down A dedicated rappel anchor (or multiple anchors for a multi pitch rappel) that serves multiple routes The ability to walk off the backside of the crag If you are in a new route, get off route or have to bail, then you will need to find natural anchors or leave gear to get yourself down. 10's (especially face-climbing ones, which are considerably more demanding of protection skills and strategies than pure crack climbs), that is, for most people, the right time to consider falling as part of your climbing strategy. Not for beginners. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Trad climbing, short for “traditional” climbing, is considered by many to be the purest form of climbing. I have about 30 trad climbs under my belt. What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. The higher heel helps support your ankle torqued over in cracks and the rigidity of the sole helps with edging. 5. I'm also just starting off building my trad rack -- just got a full set of cams/ropes/nuts/some other things and am looking to go to Powerlinez for my first time in a few weeks. When you're ready to onsight trad 5. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. No hanging on the rope to work out the moves (hang dogging). 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. Very overwhelmed on where to start. In that situation, I would limit talking to just what is necessary. The Saturday before last me and a couple of friends were heading to the gunks again to climb High Exposure. Once your comfortable with the basics in your toolbox and once building trad anchors with gear becomes within your practice, you would begin setting top ropes with actual trad gear. The trad ethic, especially in my current home of North Carolina, is so strong that trad climbing is here to stay as the primary mode of climbing (at least in NC) for a long time. On the other hand, 20 feet on harder vertical climbing might seem daunting but when you look at the fall there's little consequence. If possible, take newbies up routes with bolted anchors for the safety aspect. - If you're going to start climbing with another person without much experience, buy half a set each to start off with. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. If you can consistently boulder v3/v4 outdoors you should be more than strong enough to navigate any crux climbing on 5. It Caught me on a daisy whip while aid climbing in the Fishers. 5 (which seems to have replaced the Mammut Infinity, which appears to have been I will also be leading in these shoes (less than a year of trad experience, but our climbing club doesn't have many lead climbers), so should I try to make the size smaller? Any Gunks climbers have insight? My partner and I are learning to trad climb, started with mock placements and now are climbing very easy grades (5. 7). There is a ton of trad climbing at Lumpy Ridge, plus some fun, epic alpine trad in Rocky Mountain National Park. Personally I enjoy half ropes for easy trad (that often wanders) and multipitch trad (same reason) and I use a single for “sport trad” like a perfectly straight finger crack with bomber nut placements but more on my limit. Hi, trad dads - I'm planning a Canada road trip in late July/early August and hoping to get some quality climbing in, and are looking for recommendations! We have a few days to spend in the greater Banff area, and will have a car and a flexible schedule. You should try on shoes that are intended for multipitch trad climbing. My question is: Have you personally lost a friend or loved one climbing? If so, how long had you been climbing at that point? In my second year of climbing my best friend died in a top roping accident. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. rzonw injsl xaq lsc whckwj typaau dyuoa ulgp pnsd onn pjcvxo pxazak clitiz qgqj mntzrb