Top rope vs belay reddit. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital.

Top rope vs belay reddit Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. A bit on the side of your rant, but have you tried using geometric assisted breaking belay device as e. Lastly, if you do any rappelling outside, the gloves are also great to prevent rope burn! I use the Petzl Cordex belay gloves and really like them. This prevents slack from building up in the rope, no need to stop and feed it through the devices. If you make sure to thread the biner correctly when top belaying, there are no safety issues. Top rope vs bouldering: is it better to do both? Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. Is your partner also directly through the bolts with a biner on the belay loop? Now you’re completely on top of each other. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? Building an outdoor climbing wall. I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. I always use the comparison of "Bouldering is like Sprinting and Top Rope / Lead is like Long Distance" and I've always been more of a Strength than Endurance kind of person with most things. Many outdoor crags have top-rope access, meaning you can set the anchor at the top and either walk down or rappel. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. I avoid it because it's less safe than being lowered on belay, that's all. I usually ask if they have a finishing knot requirement as I tie in. Bouldering is harder because it's like sprinting vs running distance. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. Benefit of the ATC is it doubles as a rappel device and it’s much easier to use. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. If I top rope solo with two micro traxions on one rope am I going to die? Am I already dead? Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. With that, catching your climber softly on lead is essential to keeping them safe. The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. you are attached to the rope with a knot. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. I’ll admit I’ve used a single half rope to simul in easy terrain a bunch. Have tried the original Jul, but it handled the thick gym ropes so poorly I'd almost get pumped belaying and blocked the rope too much for my taste. 1. This is true for top-rope climbing, but especially for lead climbing where you need to know and pay attention to way more stuff in terms of safety. However, the thrill and excitement of lead climbing, with its key differences such as rope placement, gear requirements, physical demands, fall distance, and belay technique, can make the The channel Yann Camus Blissclimbing has some videos on the shunt and how it has failed in real life, as well as some alternative devices to use. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. Momentum seems a LOT more affordable than the Front. P. Is this really bad? What setup should I go for? Two micro traxions one rope. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? I'm looking to buy my first belay device. Biggest differences are how to lower people and how to pay out rope. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. What’s interesting 274 votes, 101 comments. A locking carabiner takes the place of the belay loop and attaches to the harness via the same two points that cradle the rope when you tie in. I see a lot of mixed advice about whether it's safe to use a static rope for top roping. I want yoga classes outside of normal business hours. a harness with two tie-in loops? Does the latter have disadvantages with regards to abrasion or longetivity? I often see that ultralight ski mountainering harnesses do only have those tie-in loops instead of one belay loop. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. As a community, climbers have typically impressed my by being very safety conscious and reliable about alerting An auto belay system also employs a safety rope; however, no partner is involved. I went to a new indoor climbing gym and got called out for not going under. I pretty much never use a rope fatter than 9. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. Take your brake hand way back on the rope, down by your thigh, so you've got about a yard of rope between your brake hand the the grigri. lowering: you stay on belay, and the belayer lowers you down using his belaying device. I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered so I treat them similar to other gear. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • Apr 28, 2025 · Download the app. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. I've used all but the Jul2 for lead belaying and ended up buying a Smart. What is Lead Belaying? Unlike top rope belaying, where the belayer’s responsibility is to take up the excess slack in the rope, a lead belayer manages slack for the climber. S. I have questions about the difference between top rope climbing and lead climbing. The rope is usually fed through an anchor system at the summit of the climb and down to the climber. And yes we are scared of falling. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Belaying off the anchor makes it easier to escape the belay and is "auto blocking" but lowering the second is more involved (needs to be backed up as guide mode is sort of on off). For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great It’s always a good idea to use lockers when setting up an anchor that you won’t be able to visually monitor while using it (ie top-roping). My first impression of the glasses is that they seem inherently unsafe, or at the very least less safe than looking directly at your climber. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. don't use the belay loop with a rope. I am considering the following setup, for climbing single pitch crags of 8-15 meters on top rope (either tree anchors or bolted anchors): 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. and metal work can go through the belay loop. Practicing in gyms is a great way to get solid at the skill. My current setup is a trango cinch in the belay loop and a prusik on top of it as backup. Top roping can be done indoors or outdoors, and is a popular style for beginners, as it allows climbers to focus entirely on their climbing technique without having to Dec 4, 2022 · What’s Top-Rope Climbing? Top rope climbing, or top roping, is a style of climbing where the climber ties into the end of the rope, which then threads through top rope anchors at the top of the climb and back down to a belayer at the bottom of the climbing route. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. The home of Climbing on reddit. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing     Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing If you are attached to an anchor point with your rope, be it on a ledge or at the top of a crag, then it can be a good idea to belay from your rope loop. You are mostly passive rappeling: you slide down along the rope, using your rappelling device (same as a belaying device, but used differently), the belayer is not involved, you are the active party. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. There are many ways to set up a top … Unsafe top rope belay technique? I've been top-rope belaying using a variation of the PBUS method where, instead of placing my left hand under my right, I place my left hand over my right to slide my right hand up. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. Of course it takes some short time to get use to, but after few sessions you can give rope smoothly and quickly. Top roping is a more manageable form of rock climbing and can be taught in as little as fifteen minutes to anyone If you asked the manufacturer they would say absolutely not due to obvious liability, however if you understand the risks then you can make your own decision. I'm not a trad dad, but to me this seems a little bit scary; I can't quite put my finger on it but I absolutely prefer to instead use it as a normal ATC and with a prusik. But given some of the thicker ropes in the gym, the original Click Up was What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. When the switch is set to top-rope, the cam will grip more tightly than it does when it’s switched to its lead mode. Usually if you say you need a lead test they skip the TR one) Typically consists of having each person load their belay device, tie their knot, and go over belay commands. Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. Which is best? GriGri vs GriGri+ There are a lot of factors beyond length of fall including: rope diameter vs. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. If you want to get a couple for heavy top-rope use, check out the Petzl OXAN or similar biner. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). A standard first belay device would be a tube. Obviously, it's best to get training on that sort of thing, search for a local adventure group that does climbing, and they'll surely offer a course. Reasons for not liking auto belays. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. Others say it's fine. Just wondering what everyone else’s NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. Would love to hear your FTR - I have never found rappelling or top belaying to be an issue. The 2 biggest things to keep in mind are that thin ropes cut more easily on edges, and half/twin ropes stretch much more, which can result in decking on a I read about belay glasses here a couple months ago, and I've since started seeing people use them with greater frequency at my local gym. Moving parts I can't see or inspect. Well worth the money, if you get a few people together. I wasn’t a huge fan. Clip what to the bolts? Just a locker through your belay loop? Have fun with your 3 inch range of motion while you try to pull the rope and set the next rap. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. As the climber moves upwards, the belayer takes out slack through their belay device so that if the climber falls, the belayer can Every gym I’ve climbed at in the US has required a belay test (for top rope and lead. The Pilot and Smart are pretty similar in how they work. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. Could someone explain? I like that has belay glasses on, helps me keep the shortest amount of rope out and still not short rope. e. What is the difference between belaying top rope and lead climbing? Honestly, pretty much everything! In lead belaying you're paying out rope (giving slack) while in top rope you're always taking in slack. We can probably learn just as much from the mistakes of the average climber as the expertise of a pro climber :) Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for That goes straight into the belay loop. Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Frequently Asked Questions . I find it odd that pulling slack through a loosish brake hand on a gri gri is totally acceptable for some instructors while lead belaying, but they will freak out about sliding the brake hand up the rope while top roping. The Micros I save for SUPER thin half and twin ropes. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. BTW, you can also tie your climbing rope to a tree, clove to your harness and belay from the top. In defence of the belay master we use it when we're clipping kids into the rope for top roping for speed. Jun 19, 2023 · A second feature is a switch that allows the belayer to switch between top-rope and lead belay. My question is, how can I improve my A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). Feb 12, 2018 · You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. On the matter of fixed-point belay, guides from AMGA, IFMGA, ACMG (Canadian), ENSA (French guide school) and DAV (German) has recommended munter hitch or tube style device, and recommended against the use of Grigri bc of less rope slippage, and potential increased force on the top placement. The cinch proved to be very reliable, the rope never slipped enough to make the prusik grab the rope. With the G+ that can be mitigated. The ATC doesn’t have this. I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. BD Pilot or Edelrid Jul2? I’m using the latter and I love it, it’s very intuitive feels almost like belaying with atc, I couldn’t recommend it more. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. I learned to top rope and lead belay on a figure 8. By keeping the rope taught and the micro traxion oriented upright the rope feeds through the devices seamlessly. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. The climber, who doesn’t need to think about belaying … just climbs! The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. And I want more. I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). (At least in my What is the practical difference between a harness with a belay loop vs. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. May 22, 2025 · Both top-rope and lead climbing fall under the umbrella of rope climbing, but the transition between the two can be daunting and tricky to navigate. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. The climber doesn’t have to clip bolts or place gear as they move up the wall. Jan 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. Here's the link if you're interested. Most of this distance is caused by the stretch in the rope, making the fall more comfortable and ‘dynamic’. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Jun 29, 2025 · Curious about top rope vs auto belay climbing? Learn the core similarities, differences, and which style is right for your next climb in this detailed guide. I prefered the Click Up for combining comfort, ease of use and assisted breaking. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. I had the original Click Up before and have used the GriGri, Micro Jul and Atc plus before. 2 though. Most likely I won't buy a (semi-)static rope, so I will just use my dynamic one. Both devices will actually take a moment or two to get comfortable with when belaying a leader and it simply comes down to a matter of personal preference. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. Dec 22, 2022 · Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. Obviously you are using a static rope at the gym so what is the big difference outside? I understand why dynamic ropes exist but you are not taking "falls" when on top rope; maybe a few feet at most unless you have a horrible belayer The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. This makes it easier to feed out slack while lead belaying. These are steel instead of aluminum, which makes them strong and much more resistant to wear over time. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. Some background: I mostly top-rope indoors in a gym with a good variety in ropes (some are fairly worn 11mm ropes others are fairly new 8. This creates a continuous loop that protects the climber in case of a fall. belay device, how much or how little friction there is through protection points, friction of the rope against the rock, single rope or half ropes, etc. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. The real distinction between top roping and lead climbing is the belay system used. It's good because the black cover is an easy visual check that krab is correct and also removes any risk of the screw gate working undone. I'm quite light so I have to admit it is possible to belay someone double my weight but it does put strain on my body and well in a way frustrating from the side that I do much more "work" than my partners with belaying. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. 8 - 5. After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. You cram all the difficulty of top roped routes into a handful of moves. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. Reply reply thaaatgirl • Improper clipping, maybe less so but we always climb with double beans if top rope/auto-belay. I also like to add that if you're new to leading, which I think you said you are, it's helpful to think of the amount of falls you've taken and caught. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Either belay off your harness or tie a loop in a bight of the rope for a masterpoint. Lead climbing is simple, it's the belaying that actually is the dangerous/tough part. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. I like to lead belay with the Mammut Smart, top rope belay with the GriGri and I keep an ATC with an auto-locking biner on my harness when I'm climbing outside for rappelling. I didn't think about the rope aspect yet. Nov 27, 2023 · Top rope climbing, as I mentioned above, is a climbing style in which you ascend a route while attached to a rope, which is then anchored at the top of the climbing surface. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. The belayer does not climb while belaying. You do this by securing yourself to one locker on two strands (with a clove hitch and the rope) and place your belay device on the other two strands to belay up your follower. In doing so you are more able to transfer the weight of a fallen climber more directly on to your belay and avoid the squashing sensation caused through having your harness pulled. I tied a prussik around the rope, then tie that into my backpack. This post goes over the exact differences and the gear used. At this point you've fed the climber a yard or so of slack, without the grigri locking if you've anticipated the clip correctly. Add the mental factor of fall on top rope (almost nothing happens) vs on boulder (I need to fall well to not snap my leg). 5mm). Not sure why. Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. If you are looking to get into sport climbing and are going to be rappelling then you would definitely want to get an aperture style belay device. Eventually I moved to a stitch and then to an ATC. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Belay Technique One of the primary differences regarding lead climbing and top rope is how essential your belayer is when lead climbing. I go rope soloing on a regular basis, both to session hard moves and to get a few vertical meters to gain endurance. 9 range, one 5. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. The belayer uses the belay device to What if I fall? With an attentive belay, a top rope climber who falls should never fall more than a metre or so. Anything to make it easier is enticing to me. Then my love for the chilidawg pushed me into aid climbing and its myriad of gear-muckery until my middle-aged knees and a2 pulleys said no more What about your belay history ? This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. The belay loop is mostly just for belaying, but also useful in establishments that prefer to use carabiners over knots for liability reasons. Basically, your question cannot be answered with a length of fall figure. Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. g. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Also, I mostly belay folks who are 50-80lbs heavier than me so having a belay glove on the lower is much more comfortable. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Now take your brake hand up and over, feeding the rope into the grigri from above. I'm struggling to understand what the difference (s) is/are between "lowering" and "rappelling" from a sport anchor. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. You should also become more comfortable rappelling because it's a pretty important skill to have. Advanced Climbers Gym vs. Most of It's different disciplines, bouldering is more strength based than rope climbing. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some First off, it's essential that you get proper, professional instruction if you're just starting to belay. The leather has been pretty durable so far. Focused on top roping. Do you mean belay off your harness as normal belay? There's pros and cons to belaying a second off your harness vs belaying off the ancho/ guide mode. Is top rope climbing just like belaying or is it different somehow? With top rope climbing, the anchor is at the top of the climb, with the rope going down one side to the belayer, and the other side to the climber. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. If you're tying into a rope the way most people do you should be putting the rope through both loops already. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. 11-5. Lots of negative comments about auto belays. So when a climber is on belay, the belay carabiner is loaded at three points--two on the harness and one where the rope slides. Nov 6, 2023 · 5 Main Differences Between Lead Climbing vs Top Rope Below are the five main differences between lead climbing vs top rope climbing. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. It's like dipping your toe in cold water versus jumping. If you aren't going to be rappelling then bite the bullet and get an assisted locking device. They’re heavier and a little pricier but a good If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. Thanks for the reply. Better for lead belay. My fiance will want crack climbing. The feeling of total freedom was cathartic. REI's rope website explicitly says don't do this. The belayer is tied to the rope’s bottom end with a harness and a belay device. Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). The climber is connected to the rope that is connected to the system which automatically raises the rope when the climber ascends, stops if the climber falls and lowers the climber when she or he reaches the top of the climbing wall. Dec 27, 2022 · Just know that trad climbing takes incredible knowledge and experience and is only performed outside. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. Reply reply more repliesMore replies zombie_fletcher • Reply reply more repliesMore replies mrsciencebruh • Reply reply more repliesMore replies burnsbabe • Reply reply WSBTurd_420_69 • Reply reply more repliesMore replies fotomoose • Sep 2, 2015 · In a nutshell: Top rope and lead climbing are methods for protecting a climb. lchj kmcs xcblq cxepgr xopgzo kyny lfhcyjds xeio zxzmo qmurwm vrgqh bbwg gmaixs lvzcf uuxbsc