Petzl basic top rope solo Similar to the petzl setup, micro trax extended with a sling with alpine butterfly girthed through the tie in loops. This means there's always slack. This is no longer possible on the 2013 version but have no fear, Petzl have thought of that and given us the solution. Jan 20, 2014 · You also need a way to get up or down if you can’t do a move. Petzl Basic ascender (like the Ascension but without the handle) rigged between the harness and an improvised chest harness. Also avoid Gibbs-type ascenders as they are also cam-loaded. What is Top Rope Soloing? In this video we go over the top rope solo system that professional big wall climber Jordan Cannon uses. Jun 20, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In climbing or mountaineering, the rope team offers the highest level of safety. Feb 3, 2022 · With the recent influx of climbing media, jargon like 'soloing' is spilling out into the general public. One of the most popular applications for this device. It grips the rope through clamping action, making it gentler on the rope. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. I want to replace a shunt, thinking petzl basic, opinions please (This is just for climbing, not rope access, to save time I'm aware redundancy is best practice with additional rope and unit, not what I'm interested in this time) Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. Dec 3, 2021 · They don't mention the Croll, which seems like a bit of an omission, but it has the same issue as the new Basic compared to the old version: the body at the top of the Ascension and the original Basic wraps around the rope and by clipping an oval carabiner through both holes it's possible to enclose the rope completely and make it captive in TR Solo with only GriGri2? Hi all, I just got familiar with the idea of top rope soloing which seems like something I'd like to do over the summer as nobody in my family climbs. Is a petzl croll suitable for a top-rope solo safety device? Thanks, in anticipation, Grayspectre Monk 14 Apr 2009 In reply to grayspectre: Aug 25, 2022 · I free climbed one of the world's hardest alpine routes despite carrying the weight of a multi-day pack. However, even with rope clamps without teeth, the rope’s load-bearing capacity can be reduced, and it could break at 6kN. Ascenders that function as a chest ascender but are also designed to be pulled on by the hands are considered compact or basic. It is compatible with ropes measuring 8 to 13 mm in diameter. FAR better to use "frame loaded" devices for TR solo rope grab: the Traxions, Rescucender, Petzl or Ushba Basic and the like. Sie greift das Seil durch Klemmwirkung und kann daher Seilschonender sein. Feb 13, 2021 · A guide on how to Top Rope Solo, the way that I do. Mar 13, 2013 · Another big change is the loss of the double hole at the top. The Basic is a handled ascender with no handle. Tibloc not a great idea at all for any Petzl USA. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing the rapell down. A piece of carpet or rope protector essential at the top to protect the rock. For this reason, these ascenders are only used for Top-Rope Solo Top Rope Solo Setup for Climbing: I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. M. Often referred to as toprope soloing, the solution for What are two different non-toothed devices (that do not require managing slack) that can be used to top rope solo. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. This keeps it upright (rope feeds straight through, no pulling like the Grigri and no slack like the Traxion) and provides TWO points of attachment. Daher sind die Seilklemmen nur fürs Toprope-Solo verwendet. A little over a year ago I decided to start sharing my knowledge w Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. Then you have the non-load bearing chest harness to keep the micro trax upright like so. Most Top Rope Solo (self-lining, self-belaying, shunting) and Lead Rope Solo systems need a Chest Rig / Harness. I did quite some top rope solo before but after this course i am changing my devices and the whole setup. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. " The company does, however, market a RAD system for industrial rope ascending and descending, using a Petzl Rig descender and Petzl Ascension ascender, illustrated in this link. The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. Using a tibloc in crevasse rescue is not the same as using one on a top rope solo system. Designed for rope ascents, the CROLL L chest ascender is simple to use. Petzl has a good diagram somewhere of separating the devices with a quickdraw. This means you’ll need to unweight the self-belay devices mid-pitch, and then either rappel or ascend the rope. petzl suggest combination of Micro Traxion and Microcender. This is how I have top roped solo for many years using the Petzl Shunt. Jan 12, 2022 · Climbers have been using the Petzl Shunt for toprope-soloing since the 1980s, but two recent accidents highlight the need to reconsider this practice. The biner you clip into encapsulates the rope meaning it can not jump out. However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. For this, there are several types of ascenders: handled ascenders, chest ascenders, and backup ascenders. Of the 2 devices this is the only one suitable for top rope soloing. I'll be at Devil's Lake which, if my research is correct, has many top rope accessible climbs. 5 - 6 kN. Mar 29, 2018 · The new one is part of the Rad System. Feb 24, 2015 · For example some people will clip their primary rope grab to their belay loop then drag a second rope grab below that one on a long sling. A. ) Haul packs or lighter haul bags, with the Traxion on the anchor. I use the Petzl MicroTraxion and Apr 8, 2017 · Ultimately I'm going to be lapping solo top rope very many times over the course of several months, so I really want a toothless primary device so my sheathing doesn't get chewed up after continuous use (and inevitably occasional falls). Lots of people keen to invent all sorts of solutions but to keep it simple, start with devices recommended by the manufacturer for the target application, e. Petzl advises against it and now this new failure mode I know there are some convenient features of the Shunt compared to other devices, but it doesn't seem worth it considering the increased risk. An image from an article on toprope solo climbing from Petzl. The old one is part of the Crevasse Rescue Kit A Review of the old version. After much testing and trialing, this is my method for top rope soloing. (Nope, you won’t learn that on Alpinesavvy, Google is your amigo. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Dec 9, 2021 · Andy Kirkpatrick is a world-famous climber and award-winning writer and film maker. Grigri top rope solo Hey r/climbing, I'm trying to practice a route that I want to free solo (nothing crazy but long) and I'm considering buying a grigri so that I could setup a top rope and belay myself for practice. The Petzl Basic Multipurpose Compact ascender works great for hauling systems, for ascending fixed lines and as self-protection when climbing a fixed rope. We look at assessing the rock Introduction to Top Rope Soloing “The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!” ~ Alex Lowe Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. They all share a few common design elements: a spring-loaded toothed cam that lets the rope (or device) move in one direction but not the other, and a high efficiency, sealed bearing steel pulley wheel (aka sheave). I am using a 9. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. How? We followed on toprope solo. May 2, 2018 · The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). I’d rather be safe then sorry. To me it was a good investment. Read the full article on to Feb 3, 2015 · In reply to Pj84: I regularly used a Petzl basic ascender with a backup prussik loop and sling to let you unweight in case of having to descend. May 2, 2024 · Petzl makes a nice family of pulleys with the surname “Traxion”. Mar 5, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I played with May 14, 2008 · FWIW, if I were using an ASAP to TR solo, I think I'd be more likely to put a shock absorber at the top of the rope (ie: rigging rope brings anchors back to a single point, Absorbica or whatever attached there, top rope attached to that) and clip the ASAP straight into the belay loop on my harness. When hung upside down from your chest harness it feeds surprisingly well, but engages almost instantly in a fall. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. Obviously there is more judgement to this than what is written, but would you agree with the basic premise? Ps. Aug 21, 2020 · Wer mangels Sicherungspartner trotzdem am Seil klettern möchte, kann sich auch selbst sichern. I would not recommend the Basic for "working routes" however. Introduction: My May 12, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This form of soloing predominantly shines on single pitch climbing but can be used if there's a fixed Jun 1, 2019 · Hey BetaClimbers! In this episode we revisit my most viewed video topic, Top Rope Soloing. Compact, versatile rope clampThe BASIC is a compact ascender that fits well in the hand for rope ascents. But if the primary rope grab fails I could imagine simply pushing the secondary rope grab down the rope. Aber auch bei Seilklemmen ohne Zähne werden Seile in der Buchlast reduziert und können bei 6kN reißen. Is it okay to use a thick single dynamic rope for TR solo? People say static so there's no elongation, others say slipping near the anchor while topping out can make too much force so dynamic is better. Thanks to the wide rope groove, it adapts perfectly to wide diameter, swollen or rigid, ropes while limiting friction. Wenn man dann noch Oct 12, 2020 · We have a new device to test out! Very cool episode this week and a GIVEAWAY! I'd like to thank you all for supporting this channel and I hope this is one wa Feb 20, 2021 · Question: looking for some advice for Top rope soloing. Shunts of May 11, 2015 · My top rope solo climbing system - smooth as butter - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. I run top rope solo with a single 11mm static line and two micro traxions, one raised on chest slings. Question: While climbing with a partner still remains the best solution, using a fixed rope with a self-belay system is an option that many climbers practice when a partner is not available. Welches Material ihr fürs Rope-Solo-Klettern im Toprope benötigt, wie der Aufbau funktioniert und worauf ihr beim Rope-Solo-Klettern sonst noch achten müsst, erfährt ihr hier. ), a backup ascender such as a Petzl Tibloc or Wild Country Ropeman, and a double-length Top rope solo climbing is all about autonomy and practice. Apr 16, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. the Top Rope Online Course really gave me systematic insights in what is good and what is less good, and it also shows lots of different ways of looking at things. Jul 17, 2021 · In reply to Tall Oak: There's a good group for TRS on Facebook with pages of information and all combinations of devices all discussed. Jul 14, 2022 · The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). I’m thinking about setting up a Petzl Rescucender as my main device with a backup. Sep 2, 2020 · Here is my top rope solo set up. It is there to ensure that if the top device fails, the bottom device will catch the climber. If I tie myself in and tie backup knots would this be a safe enough setup? Mar 6, 2025 · We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. P. You can go out on your own terms, climb alone, but with the safety of a top rope. To prepare for this, always carry some extra gear on your harness: an assisted-braking belay/rappel device (Grigri, Cinch, etc. So with a hair tie you can keep the Micro Traxion up but still have freedom of movement from Petzl also has good stuff. We discuss rope soloing here. Never used a second rope, just make sure your top belay is bombproof and your rope is weighted with some gear. I’ve heard that toothed devices such as a micro traxion can damage the sheath on a rope or even cut a rope. Nov 7, 2022 · Improvised rope ascending system, combine with a friction hitch or micro ascender like a Petzl Tibloc to go up a fixed rope. In fact, Petzl states that "self-belaying with a Grigri is prohibited. Dec 8, 2012 · I recently picked up a Petzl Microtraxion to use for hauling light loads, and have also used it several times for top rope soloing [I walked to the top of a crag, fixed a line off the anchor, walked back down, then climbing the route from the bottom with the fixed line running through the Microtraxion to capture my progress]. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. Aug 21, 2020 · Rope solo climbing - this is how it works: Equipment list, information on assembly and tips for self-belaying when top rope climbing. There's a lot of forum faff and yergunnadie. Types of Ascenders Hand Ascenders With an excellent grip Jan 5, 2022 · This setup is a particularly useful hands-free solution in caving and rescue situations and makes them an ideal component of a top rope solo setup. Also kann ein harter Vorstieg-Sturz zum Seilriss führen. Apr 3, 2010 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feb 12, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The Petzl Shunt can detach from a rope. This method is good for the following device Jul 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I would be super heartbroken if this happened to my buddy who swears on using a Shunt for TR Solo. Indoor and Outdoor Climbing Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, get everything you need for a successful day of climbing. Jul 13, 2024 · Petzl Shunt is Dangerous! The Petzl Shunt is a rope clamp without teeth. Top Rope Soloing (TRS). TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. In the past we have been able to build pulley-jammers or mechanical advantage SRT systems by placing a karabiner through the top holes and capturing the rope. In dynamic rope tests it will shred the sheath of a rope at 4. Oct 10, 2020 · In reply to Explorer-Jason: Everyone has a slightly different system, some are safer and faffier than others. The Micro Traxion is not really meant to be falling onto. Now OTOH if you were to use a Petzl Basic, there is no slack and a low stretch rope would be fine IMO. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. Oct 11, 2020 · I use a Petzl Basic Ascender on the belay loop of my harness. Using this method you can push on hard grades without having to worry about getting stuck or transitioning to rappel. Sep 2, 2021 · Petzl Shunt ist gefährlich! Das Petzl Shunt ist eine Seilklemme ohne Zähne. The lower attachment hole is large enough to accept carabiners for the lanyard and the footloop. Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that many climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. The way most folks TR self belay with a mini trax is to hang it on a short sling from their harness. How to Top Rope Solo with the LOV3 and the Micro Traxion Introduction Top rope (“TR”) soloing is an advanced style of climbing in which a climber uses ascending devices on a fixed rope to climb a pitch without the need for a belayer to manage slack. I currently have a Petzl Minitraxion, and am thinking of getting the Wild Country Ropeman2 as the back up, since it's less than half the cost and functions similarly. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. See more on my blog In this video I do a first ascent of an undeveloped crag with a top rope solo setup. 8 dynamic rope with a jumar as primary and microtraxion (backup) on a single Jun 9, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Sep 25, 2016 · I want to replace a shunt, thinking petzl basic, opinions please (This is just for climbing, not rope access, to save time I'm aware redundancy is best practice with additional rope and unit, not what I'm interested in this time) Thanks Independent ascender reviews by real outdoors people. Two climbers recently had accidents when top rope solo climbing using the Petzl Shunt without backups. I use two lines (well usually one rope knotted in the middle at the anchor), with a microtraxion on one, which is weighted at the base, and a grigri on the other as a backup, unweighted and manually fed. As long as there is no traversing it worked well. http://petzl. I don't bother with a second back-up device, so I'll leave it to those who do to suggest the best thing. For it to work right on top rope it would need to be weighted constantly and shouldn't shock load at all or it could rip the rope due to fall Subscribed 476 30K views 2 years ago PETZL Method (Top Rope Solo) General principles for solo climbing on a fixed belay rope: more Dec 20, 2017 · Hi all - Reaching out to the community for comments on experience. I'm building my top rope solo setup. For that reason alone I would not recommend a static rope. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 7 ascenders. Therefore, a hard lead fall could lead to the rope snapping. Does anyone with experienc ** In this video I show how I use a basic self-rescue technique to escape my rope solo system and rappel back to the base of the climb. Covered are some tips when looking at sending a new line when going on a solo. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. Oct 4, 2011 · The Croll is a chest ascender, it should not be used for anything else. g. So clipping it up to a chest harness is recommended, but this starts to limit movement. There's a lot of good info spread across MP forums, but figured i'd consolidate and put together an Instructable for anyone else interested in maki… The second device is on the rope for redundancy. This story was written by Petzl as advertising material. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Jun 23, 2020 · If you (OP) can't find the hardware you want, I can get you a Petzl Basic ascender - the original style that Petzl recommended for TR self belay (the new Basic, the Croll, and the Shunt are not suggested as self belay devices) - in unused condition for $50 shipped. I use a Petzl Micro Traxion. There are lots of possibilities but at least now i have a deeper insight in the whole matter ═════════════════════════════════Before asking questions, please read my lead rope solo manual here:My channel → About → My Sep 2, 2020 · Here is my top rope solo set up. Just browsing this post there were multiple recommendations that I know have broken or failed in catastrophic ways on a more than normal Jul 26, 2002 · The way it's described by Petzl (they make both devices, assume they know what they're talking about), the screwgate goes through the top hole on the ascender, enclosing the rope just above the cam, and directly to the harness. With a bit of weight on the bottom of the rope it's very smooth. Others recommend a semi static top May 27, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The attachment holes ensure efficient positioning during ascents. He and author of 9 books and viewed as an expert in big walling, soloing, and climbing techniques, having climbed El Cap over 40 times and climbed on all seven continents. Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. I understand the theory of why you double the ropes but if that held any water we would always climb with two ropes. The safest and most cost efficient way to rope solo is to learn as much as possible about how things work, how they break, and how to save yourself when things go wrong/you fuck up. In this video I explain in detail my top rope soloing set up. Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. The problem with the “most common way” is that it only employs a single rope. Choosing Your Ascender Petzl ascenders are designed for ascending fixed ropes, but they also have other uses including helping a second climber who is having trouble, hauling a victim out of a crevasse or up a wall, or self-belaying. 2 Suncream 10 Oct 2020 In reply to Explorer-Jason: 2 days ago · A RAD SYSTEM FOR TOP-ROPE SOLOING Notice: Petzl has not approved this system's components for the techniques described below. Falling with slack in your system will significantly increase the forces that these devices put on your rope, which can result in the de-sheathing of your Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. . I already have a Petzl Basic (toothed ascender) as a backup. I'm looking to TR solo some single pitch ice climbs 1. Dave Macleod took his TR Solo tutorial down. com/en/pro/rope-clamps-hauling-and-lifting/basic If you are thinking of using it for a rope solo with a top rope (like people do with the Shunt) it is worth remembering that it has teeth. Mar 12, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. There are many different devices on the market and ALL of them have pro's and con's. Climbing Magazine’s editors endorse the content, but had no involvement in its creation. bbuzldcq trceu lgqtsb enubz jthmp eqt xpway ijxv gaacvdan easzzq uezlm rcu gfaemjd rkoypual rfvirk